orchids
Orchids for Beginners
excerpted from Better Homes and Gardens
Exotic Allure
Dazzling orchids are an exotic delight that create a luxurious way to celebrate your day. And, best of all, they are easy to
grow!
To thrive in your home, orchids require the same kind of attention you give your other plants, but watering is most
important. With some exceptions, keep the potting medium moist but don't let the plants sit in water. This generally
entails watering once a week. When growing cattleyas, allow the potting medium (porous ground bark) to dry out
between waterings.
Occasionally mist the air around the plants to increase humidity. Or, set pots in a pebble-lined tray filled with water to
just below the bottom of the pots. When the plants are in active growth (producing roots, stems, and flowers), feed them
weekly with a water-soluble orchid fertilizer. When the plants settle into a resting period and don't grow, fertilize every
other week. Repot as needed according to Potting an Orchid.
A bit of natural history
In their native tropical habitats, orchids often grow on tree trunks and limbs. As epiphytes, these plants take moisture
and nutrients from the air around them, not from soil. Indoors, they grow best in a loose, porous medium, such as pine
bark, or a mix formulated for orchids. Such mixes may include bark, sphagnum moss, and charcoal.
Potting an Orchid
Light: Medium-high
Time: 1 hour
Skill: Moderate
What you need
• Pot
• Pine bark or soil, depending on orchid
• Pebbles (optional)
• Dowel or stake
Great orchids for beginners
• Ascocenda
• Cattleya alliance
• Dendrobium
• Epidendrum
• Jewel
• Lady's slipper
• Masdevallia
• Moth orchids
• Oncidium
• Cattleya
Instructions
1. Timing: Repot your orchid when the roots become crowded and grow over the edge of the pot or when the medium
breaks down, usually every three years. Repot in warm weather when the plant finishes blooming and new roots are
forming.
2. Preparation: Soak the new potting medium (pine bark or soil) in water overnight. If the old medium is dry, water it well
because it's easier to remove from the roots when moist. Unpot the plant, remove potting medium, and trim any dead or
damaged roots.
3. Potting: If desired, place a layer of pebbles in the bottom of the pot. Set the orchid in the pot; place those with
horizontal stems (rhizomes), such as cattleyas, so the rhizome sits 1 inch below the rim. Fill the pot with the medium.
4. Finishing: Work the medium around the roots and pack it down firmly until the plant seems stable. Make sure
rhizomes (if present) remain at or near the surface. If you need to stake the plant for stability, do it now with a dowel or
similar device.
excerpted from Better Homes and Gardens
Exotic Allure
Dazzling orchids are an exotic delight that create a luxurious way to celebrate your day. And, best of all, they are easy to
grow!
To thrive in your home, orchids require the same kind of attention you give your other plants, but watering is most
important. With some exceptions, keep the potting medium moist but don't let the plants sit in water. This generally
entails watering once a week. When growing cattleyas, allow the potting medium (porous ground bark) to dry out
between waterings.
Occasionally mist the air around the plants to increase humidity. Or, set pots in a pebble-lined tray filled with water to
just below the bottom of the pots. When the plants are in active growth (producing roots, stems, and flowers), feed them
weekly with a water-soluble orchid fertilizer. When the plants settle into a resting period and don't grow, fertilize every
other week. Repot as needed according to Potting an Orchid.
A bit of natural history
In their native tropical habitats, orchids often grow on tree trunks and limbs. As epiphytes, these plants take moisture
and nutrients from the air around them, not from soil. Indoors, they grow best in a loose, porous medium, such as pine
bark, or a mix formulated for orchids. Such mixes may include bark, sphagnum moss, and charcoal.
Potting an Orchid
Light: Medium-high
Time: 1 hour
Skill: Moderate
What you need
• Pot
• Pine bark or soil, depending on orchid
• Pebbles (optional)
• Dowel or stake
Great orchids for beginners
• Ascocenda
• Cattleya alliance
• Dendrobium
• Epidendrum
• Jewel
• Lady's slipper
• Masdevallia
• Moth orchids
• Oncidium
• Cattleya
Instructions
1. Timing: Repot your orchid when the roots become crowded and grow over the edge of the pot or when the medium
breaks down, usually every three years. Repot in warm weather when the plant finishes blooming and new roots are
forming.
2. Preparation: Soak the new potting medium (pine bark or soil) in water overnight. If the old medium is dry, water it well
because it's easier to remove from the roots when moist. Unpot the plant, remove potting medium, and trim any dead or
damaged roots.
3. Potting: If desired, place a layer of pebbles in the bottom of the pot. Set the orchid in the pot; place those with
horizontal stems (rhizomes), such as cattleyas, so the rhizome sits 1 inch below the rim. Fill the pot with the medium.
4. Finishing: Work the medium around the roots and pack it down firmly until the plant seems stable. Make sure
rhizomes (if present) remain at or near the surface. If you need to stake the plant for stability, do it now with a dowel or
similar device.
fail-eh-NOP-sis •
Phalaenopsis, the moth orchid, is perhaps the best orchid for growing in the home, and is also a favorite with
greenhouse growers. Well-grown plants can flower often, sometimes with a few flowers throughout the year, though the
main season is late winter into spring. Average home temperatures and conditions are usually sufficient. Flower stems
on certain hybrids can be forced to re-bloom by cutting the tip off after the initial flowering. Only healthy plants should be
induced to flower repeatedly. Culture for Doritis, a related genus, thought by some to be conspecific with Phalaenopsis,
and Doritaeiwpsis, a hybrid between the two genera, is the same as for pure Phalaenopsis.
LIGHT is easy to provide for phalaenopsis. They grow easily in a bright window, with little or no sun. An east window is
ideal in the home; shaded south or west windows are acceptable. In overcast, northern winter climates, a full south
exposure may be needed. Artificial lighting can easily be provided. Four fluorescent tubes in one fixture supplemented
by incandescent bulbs are placed 6 to 12 inches above the leaves, 12 to 16 hours a day, following natural day length. In
a greenhouse, shade must be given; 70 to 85 percent shade, or between 1,000 and 1,500 foot-candles, is
recommended. No shadow should be seen if you hold your hand one foot above a plant's leaves.
TEMPERATURES for phalaenopsis should usually be above 60 F at night, and range between 75 and 85 F or more
during the day. Although higher temperatures force faster vegetative growth, higher humidity and air movement must
accompany higher temperatures, the recommended maximum
being 90 to 95 F. Night temperatures to 55 are desirable for several weeks in the autumn to initiate flower spikes.
Fluctuating temperatures can cause bud drop on plants with buds ready to open.
WAT E R is especially critical for phalaenopsis. Because they have no major water-storage organs other than their
leaves, they must never completely dry out. Plants should be thoroughly watered and not watered again until nearly dry.
In the heat of summer in a dry climate, this may be every other day; in the winter in a cool northern greenhouse, it may
be every 10 days. Water only in the morning, so that the leaves dry by nightfall, to prevent rot.
HUMIDITY is important to phalaenopsis, the recommended humidity being between 50 and 80 percent. In humid
climates, as in greenhouses, it is imperative that the humid air is moving. Leaves should be dry as soon as possible,
always by nightfall. In the home, set the plants on trays of gravel, partially filled with water, so that the pots never sit in
water.
FERTILIZE on a regular schedule, especially if the weather is warm, when the plants are most often growing. Twice-a-
month applications of high-nitrogen fertilizer (such as 30-10-10) are appropriate where bark-based media are used.
Other- wise, a balanced fertilizer is best. When flowering is desired, a high-phosphorus fertilizer (such as 10-30-20) can
be applied to promote blooming. Some growers apply fertilizer at one-quarter strength with every watering; this is best
for warm, humid conditions. When cooler, or under overcast conditions, fertilizer should be applied twice per month at
weak strength.
POTTING is best done in the spring, immediately after flowering. Phalaenopsis plants must be potted in a porous mix.
Potting is usually done every one to three years. Mature plants can grow in the same container until the potting medium
starts to decompose, usually in two years. Root rot occurs if plants are left in a soggy medium. Seedlings usually grow
fast enough to need repotting yearly, and should be repotted in a fine-grade medium. Mature plants are potted in a
medium-grade mix. To repot, remove all the old medium from the roots, trim soft, rotted roots, and spread the
remaining roots over a handful of medium in the bottom of a new pot. Fill the rest of the pot with medium, working it
among the roots, so that the junction of the roots and the stem is at the top of the medium.
The American Orchid Society is the world's leading provider of information about and related to orchids. We invite you to
join us and learn about the world's most fascinating flowers and plants. Your membership entitles you to our monthly
award-winning magazine Orchids, a free copy of our cultural book Your First Orchid and the AOS Almanac, a 10 percent
discount on items purchased through The AOS Book Shop, and access to the largest pool of orchid experts ever
assembled. All this and much more can be yours as a member of the AOS.
American Orchid Society http://orchidweb.org
6000 South Olive Avenue West Palm Beach, Florida 33405-4199
561-585-8666
Fax 561-585-0654
Prepared by the AOS Education Committee
Phalaenopsis, the moth orchid, is perhaps the best orchid for growing in the home, and is also a favorite with
greenhouse growers. Well-grown plants can flower often, sometimes with a few flowers throughout the year, though the
main season is late winter into spring. Average home temperatures and conditions are usually sufficient. Flower stems
on certain hybrids can be forced to re-bloom by cutting the tip off after the initial flowering. Only healthy plants should be
induced to flower repeatedly. Culture for Doritis, a related genus, thought by some to be conspecific with Phalaenopsis,
and Doritaeiwpsis, a hybrid between the two genera, is the same as for pure Phalaenopsis.
LIGHT is easy to provide for phalaenopsis. They grow easily in a bright window, with little or no sun. An east window is
ideal in the home; shaded south or west windows are acceptable. In overcast, northern winter climates, a full south
exposure may be needed. Artificial lighting can easily be provided. Four fluorescent tubes in one fixture supplemented
by incandescent bulbs are placed 6 to 12 inches above the leaves, 12 to 16 hours a day, following natural day length. In
a greenhouse, shade must be given; 70 to 85 percent shade, or between 1,000 and 1,500 foot-candles, is
recommended. No shadow should be seen if you hold your hand one foot above a plant's leaves.
TEMPERATURES for phalaenopsis should usually be above 60 F at night, and range between 75 and 85 F or more
during the day. Although higher temperatures force faster vegetative growth, higher humidity and air movement must
accompany higher temperatures, the recommended maximum
being 90 to 95 F. Night temperatures to 55 are desirable for several weeks in the autumn to initiate flower spikes.
Fluctuating temperatures can cause bud drop on plants with buds ready to open.
WAT E R is especially critical for phalaenopsis. Because they have no major water-storage organs other than their
leaves, they must never completely dry out. Plants should be thoroughly watered and not watered again until nearly dry.
In the heat of summer in a dry climate, this may be every other day; in the winter in a cool northern greenhouse, it may
be every 10 days. Water only in the morning, so that the leaves dry by nightfall, to prevent rot.
HUMIDITY is important to phalaenopsis, the recommended humidity being between 50 and 80 percent. In humid
climates, as in greenhouses, it is imperative that the humid air is moving. Leaves should be dry as soon as possible,
always by nightfall. In the home, set the plants on trays of gravel, partially filled with water, so that the pots never sit in
water.
FERTILIZE on a regular schedule, especially if the weather is warm, when the plants are most often growing. Twice-a-
month applications of high-nitrogen fertilizer (such as 30-10-10) are appropriate where bark-based media are used.
Other- wise, a balanced fertilizer is best. When flowering is desired, a high-phosphorus fertilizer (such as 10-30-20) can
be applied to promote blooming. Some growers apply fertilizer at one-quarter strength with every watering; this is best
for warm, humid conditions. When cooler, or under overcast conditions, fertilizer should be applied twice per month at
weak strength.
POTTING is best done in the spring, immediately after flowering. Phalaenopsis plants must be potted in a porous mix.
Potting is usually done every one to three years. Mature plants can grow in the same container until the potting medium
starts to decompose, usually in two years. Root rot occurs if plants are left in a soggy medium. Seedlings usually grow
fast enough to need repotting yearly, and should be repotted in a fine-grade medium. Mature plants are potted in a
medium-grade mix. To repot, remove all the old medium from the roots, trim soft, rotted roots, and spread the
remaining roots over a handful of medium in the bottom of a new pot. Fill the rest of the pot with medium, working it
among the roots, so that the junction of the roots and the stem is at the top of the medium.
The American Orchid Society is the world's leading provider of information about and related to orchids. We invite you to
join us and learn about the world's most fascinating flowers and plants. Your membership entitles you to our monthly
award-winning magazine Orchids, a free copy of our cultural book Your First Orchid and the AOS Almanac, a 10 percent
discount on items purchased through The AOS Book Shop, and access to the largest pool of orchid experts ever
assembled. All this and much more can be yours as a member of the AOS.
American Orchid Society http://orchidweb.org
6000 South Olive Avenue West Palm Beach, Florida 33405-4199
561-585-8666
Fax 561-585-0654
Prepared by the AOS Education Committee
Orchids; one of a kind beauty.
Information and designs for sale, potted orchids and fresh cut
orchids. Orchids for sale click here.
Information and designs for sale, potted orchids and fresh cut
orchids. Orchids for sale click here.
Dressed Orchid Plant
Limited Special
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Dressed in a container, not
plastic.
Order Now
Limited Special
Order now for $59.95 and
with free open (within 2
weeks) delivery included!
Choose from a selection.
Comes as a "kit"; with spray
Dressed in a container, not
plastic.
Order Now
Common names: orchid, cymbidium, dendrobium, oncidium, cattleya, phalaenopsis
Description: Throughout the world, more than 17,000 species are known, and varieties vary in size and
shape. Oncidium blossoms are 1/2 to 1 inch and are usually yellow with orange-red markings.
Cattleya blossoms are large, ruffled and usually 5 to 6 inches across in white or purple with contrasting
throats. Phalaenopsis have moth- or butterfly-shaped flowers in colors such as white, pink, purple and
bicolors. Cymbidium and dendrobium flowers have a butterfly-like shape and are 3 to 4 inches acress.
The larger of the two, cymbidiums are white, yellow, green or lavender with pink or red lips, while
dendrobiums are often white or lavender.
Description: Throughout the world, more than 17,000 species are known, and varieties vary in size and
shape. Oncidium blossoms are 1/2 to 1 inch and are usually yellow with orange-red markings.
Cattleya blossoms are large, ruffled and usually 5 to 6 inches across in white or purple with contrasting
throats. Phalaenopsis have moth- or butterfly-shaped flowers in colors such as white, pink, purple and
bicolors. Cymbidium and dendrobium flowers have a butterfly-like shape and are 3 to 4 inches acress.
The larger of the two, cymbidiums are white, yellow, green or lavender with pink or red lips, while
dendrobiums are often white or lavender.
Cymbidium Cattleya Phalaenopsis Oncidium Dendrobium
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